March 18, 2010 In My Garden Log

April 22nd, 2010
Red Flowers on Parrotia

Red Flowers on Parrotia

Parrotia is a very interesting tree, patchy peely bark, wonderful fall color with red, purple and yellow leaves but the most interesting factor to me is the red flowers in early spring.  It is a slow grower 20′ to 40′ tall but I have seen a much older specimen at Biltmore that appears to be 60′ tall.

Fragrant Mahonia Flowers
Fragrant Mahonia Flowers

 I will post pictures of the tree thru out the season so you can enjoy it.

mahonia tucked in between some trees in a wooded area
mahonia tucked in between some trees in a wooded area

Mahonia is a great evergreen plant for dry shade. It does get tall and grows upright. But if you have some dry shade want some fragrance and color early spring it fits the bill.

snowdrops that were planted in the woods
snowdrops that were planted in the woods
small bunch of dwf iris tucked around the garden
small bunch of dwf iris tucked around the garden

A beautiful day, just the day to walk around the garden and see whats happening. It was a cool morning so I had a little time before heading out to a customers.

The first thing I wondered upon was these little dwarf  Iris. They flower along the same time as crocus and daffodils. They are small but are great for cutting and bringing indoors. They put off a nice soft scent. They seem to naturalize very easily.  Found a bunch of snowdrops that had been planted a few years ago. Always a nice surprise this time of year.

March 7 2010, In My Garden Log

March 15th, 2010

With the Winter snows in East Tennessee there was not much work going on in my garden. The first good weekend of warm sunshine made it a must to be in the garden. Everything is still dormant but there is work to do .

First, I walked through the garden and just looked around looking for life or a sign of spring. I saw a touch of green here and there but it was not anything to get to excited about.  Only a true gardener could see and dream of what was to come.  It was exciting enough for me just to be outdoors in the sunshine.  I was impressed by a groundcover that I have had for years.   It did cover the ground over the years.  Growing leaps and bounds, doing equally well in the sun and the shade.  It had a hard time during drought times but always seemed to bounce back pretty well.  This winter it was actually evergreen and looked pretty good.

Lamium, an nice evergreen groundcover when conditions are best.

Lamium, an nice evergreen groundcover when conditions are best.

I first went to the herb garden and cut back some of the herbs. This included the lavender, the mints, the lemon balm to name a few.  I have just purchase a set of gas powered trimmers.  They are great for women to use.  Easy to start and not as heavy as some of the ones on the market.  I just love them and so I  set to work just trimming.

this is lavender before a good trim

this is lavender before a good trim.

I barely trimmed the top of the lavender, basically just trimming off old flowers and some foliage to clean up the plant to get ready for a burst of growth

lavender after a trimming up

lavender after a trimming up

Tipping and trimming your lavender in the spring before it flowers and then again after it flowers will encourage new flowers and will give you a thick healthy plant.

The lavender in the bottom photo is pretty old and has been around for about 8 years or so.  It needs a harder trimming after it flowers to encourage new growth.

Next I went to the lemon balm, the tiny new growth was barely peeking up from the ground.  I trimmed the bee balm down to the ground.  This is the same method used for mints, oregano, and other herbs that die back to the ground.  The dead foliage is great to add to the compost pile.

new growth from lemon balm peeking up from the ground

new growth from lemon balm peeking up from the ground

grasses that line the roadway that have been cut back

grasses that line the roadway that have been cut back

Next project was cutting back the ornamental grasses.  Spring is the best time for this project.  To many times when this is done in the fall or early winter the grass will die back and you will have holes in it or the clump may only have half the growth the next season.  What happens is the stems on the foliage of the ornamental grasses are hollow and they fill with water and rot if trimmed to early in the fall or winter.   Enough excitement for this day.  The afternoon gets really cool when the sun starts to go down.  There will be more days to get back into my garden.

Installing a Water Garden

March 15th, 2010

The location we are working with in these photos was decided on by the customer.  It is almost the perfect spot for a water garden. It is tucked in an area that is close to the home.  It can be heard both inside the home and out. There is a wonderful patio / porch area where the sights and sounds of the water garden can be enjoyed.  The part sun part shade location makes it even a more perfect spot for a healthy water garden.

This location was an excellant choice for a water garden.

This location was an excellant choice for a water garden.

Excavating the area for the  water garden was some tremendous work. We used a small dingo and some manpower to begin. There are so many different ways to excavate the hole for the water garden.  Some books will tell you to make a slight angle or slope your walls and floor.  Other instructions will say to make a gradual incline from the outside of the water garden to the middle.  I prefer and have been very successful in making walls straight, having visible depth  and then having a ledge for your rocks.  The size of your ledge depends on the size of the rock.  Some areas as you will see in the photo will have larger ledges than others.  Ledges are used for rock and plants.

The largest member of the aquatic plant family is the marginal plants.  Marginal plants need shallow areas to grow and flourish.  Most people do not plan large enough areas for the marginal plants.  I often hear people say that is the one thing that they would do differently in planning a water garden.

Showing the excavated hole  with the ledges and the skimmer filter

Showing the excavated hole with the ledges and the skimmer filter

Once the excavation of the main water garden is complete it is time to take into consideration the filters that will be installed.  In this water garden we have a skimmer filter and a waterfall filter.  The skimmer filter houses the pump and keeps debris from directly accessing the pump.  This extends the life of the pump.  It will run smoothly without leaves and debris restricting the flow.  There is a net and sometimes some filter media that separate the pump from the intake of the water garden that protects your pump.  The Waterfall filter is just that.  The water is piped in from the skimmer filter or other side of the pond into a boxed filter that acts as a waterfall.  This filter usually has some filter media or some biological material to capture bacteria that helps to fight algae.

It is best to place the skimmer filter with pump on the other side of the water garden so you will be moving as much water as possible.   I chose to place the filter more than halfway across the water garden.  This will pull water in from all areas of the pond.

The drain plug and pipe that carries the water, sludge and debris out of the water garden

The drain plug and pipe that carries the water, sludge and debris out of the water garden

A bottom drain is a good addition to any pond.  It will help in draining the pond in cleaning.  The water and pond bottom sludge and debris will flow thru the pipe to an area in the garden.  The drain in the photo has a plug that is removed for cleaning the pond etc.  Other drains are like a dish drainer that stays open and a valve on the pipe leaving the pond is used to open and close to remove water, sludge and debris.

Once all excavating for the main body of the water garden, the ledges, the filters and the bottom drain are done you are ready for installing the liner.

The drain plug installed in the liner

The drain plug installed in the liner

We used an under the liner material to protect the liner from rock or anything that could puncture the liner.  You could use carpet, carpet pads, paper, magazine, or ground cloth.
This under the liner material can be in strips or pieces, whatever it takes to cover the floor of the pond.

We folded the rubber liner so it could be placed in the middle of the hole and unfolded out to its full size.  Pulling, stretching and folding the rubber liner as needed to smoothly cover the hole dug.  Don’t worry about creases etc.  The weight of the water will hold down big creases on the bottom of the pond.  The rocks on the ledges and side will cover up creases on the side.   No matter how hard and perfect you try to be there will be creases and folds.  The liner comes in width and length and most times your water garden has a rounded shape to it.

Pulling, strecthing and creasing the liner to fill the hole

Pulling, strecthing and creasing the liner to fill the hole

With the liner in place now it is time to lay the rock.  I will be dry stacking the rock and not laying or using any concrete.  Concrete can mess with the ph of the water garden and can cause problems with the plants and the fish.

Laying the rock is a tedious and very time consuming job.  It works like a puzzle flipping and turning the rock to fit in place.  I lay the rock out so I can use every rock.  Small ones are used on the bottom rows and to stabilize larger rocks.

Rock piled up and ready to use

Rock piled up and ready to use

Most all larger flatter rock is used for cap rock to finish off the project.  Some areas I will use boulders to fill in.  This is done carefully not to block the  view of the water from the sitting areas.

Stacking and Laying the Rock

Stacking and Laying the Rock

I lay a few larger rock along the bottom of the pond to hid the drain, and add areas where the fish can play and hide.  I also pile rock on ledges  and pond bottom to add areas where you can tuck in plants.

The final look of the water garden, complete with plants and mulch.  It does look a little to clean.  Soon there will be plants and fish added and it will begin to look like a true natural water garden.  Note the large boulder in the foreground.  It is a seat boulder,  just perfect for sitting and feeding the fish and checking out the water garden.  This boulder weighs in at a little over 2 tons.  It was a bully to manuever around.  But, with some equipment and a plan we placed it exactly where I wanted it.  Needless to say the guys thought I was a little to picky and it could not be done.  I think it took about 3 hours to get properly placed.

Final Look complete with Boulder Seat

Final Look complete with Boulder Seat